Thursday night, I attended my first Ecuadorian birthday party. Which is funny since I hadn't planned to go out that night. I was all set to snuggle up with my laptop and get some prep work done for class (meaning, of course, catch up on my TV shows). I had actually just showered and booted up my computer when my host mom popped her head into my room and asked if I might be interested in attending a party for a relative with her and my sister, Karen.
Well of course I was! After all, that is what this year is all about--new experiences. So I exchanged my flannel PJs for a dress and some leggings and in less than five minutes was out the door.
As we were driving to the party, I tried to get some additional information from sister about just whose party we were going to. It turns out it was a 50th birthday celebration for my host cousin's wife's father....I think. That is, I'm pretty sure. I feel like a lot of stuff still gets lots in translation with me. But I'm getting there one step at a time.
After picking up another relative on the way, we arrived at a house on the outskirts of Ibarra a little after 8. The entire ride over I found myself becoming increasingly anxious. What on earth was I going to do at a party full of people who only speak Spanish? Would I have any idea what was going on? And what exactly does one do at an Ecua-birthday? What if I messed up some time-honored tradition and brought shame on the entire family?
Well. We arrived before my thoughts could get much further and, wouldn't you know it? Things just happened as they happen as they always do.
We met a few people outside on our way in and my host mom proudly introduced me as "mi hijita." (Let's just say that my anxiety suddenly didn't seem so overwhelming.) Then we walked through the door into a large room where all of the chairs and furniture had been pushed against the wall. Lining each wall was a row of seated relatives apparently waiting on us to get the festivities started. Before that could happen though, my mom, Karen and I had to go around and greet each person individually with either a handshake or the Ecua-greeting. (This is another Ecuadorian custom. It's very rude to enter a room without greeting everyone.) After twenty-something greetings I was practically worn out before we had even started!
At first, nothing really happened. We kind of all just sat awkwardly staring across the room at each other or making small talk with our neighbors. Someone came around and handed us small plastic cups with sparkling wine but no one took a sip. I became a little concerned that maybe I had overestimated the excitement of an Ecuadorian fiesta.
Just as I was about to lose all hope, the birthday man and his family entered. His daughter gave a beautiful speech about how much he meant to her and afterwards we all drank his health. Then she showed a short home video of pictures and quotes his family had put together for him. And then someone put on music! And the birthday man and his wife began to dance! And so did other people! And I was very happy to see that we were not going to be sitting stoically in our chairs all evening.
While the dancing began I noticed that the wife of the birthday man was slowly working her way around the room with a pitcher and what looked like a shot glass. I couldn't clearly see what was happening as my view was blocked by the dancers but I could see she was moving in our direction. Sure enough, several moments later she appeared in front of my host sister (who was seated next to me) with her pitcher of golden-ish liquid and a shot glass which also contained some of the liquid. The same shot glass, mind you, that everyone else had drunk out of. (Little Known Fact: Germs do not exist in Ecuador.)
My host sister turned to me. "Whiskey," she said and dutifully took her swig. Then it was my turn. Apparently we were toasting the the birthday man's health and it was clearly something we were all expected to do. I followed suit and was happy to find it had at least been diluted with some water and that hopefully that was that. (If only...)
We ended up being served dinner a few moments later (and by dinner I mean a literal mountain of rice, turkey, potatoes, and a mixed vegetable salad). It was delicious but as I had been eyeing the birthday cake since we arrived, I was afraid I wasn't going to have room.
That was quickly solved once the plates were cleared. The music was turned back up to full blast and the dancing began in earnest. (Believe it or not Gangnam Style was played at one point.) I decided to just observe at the beginning. My height already made me conspicuous and I wasn't about to go out on the dance floor and make myself stand out even more by doing the wrong step.
It seemed like everyone was doing some version of a step-touch so when a mustached older relative finally asked me to dance I figured I could manage. Everyone seemed to be duly surprised that I could handle myself well on the dance floor and for the rest of the night I barely sat down. I received quite a few compliments and offers to learn more steps. I also received a nickname from the birthday man: "ohmigosh." (Said in the most valley-girl voice he could muster which made me lose it every time.) In fact, that's pretty much what I was called the entire night. It's even what he called me in his thank you speech to end the night.
During one of my brief breaks on the couch my sister and mom informed me that la hora loca would soon be upon us. From what I could decipher, it involved entertainers of some kind, masks and lots more dancing.
Also by this point, the whiskey pitcher had made its rounds so many times I had lost count. It seemed to be a bit of a game between some of the women and the birthday man (who was now the one in control of the pitcher) who would put up a fight about having to take another shot and him cajoling them that it was his birthday after all and didn't they want to wish him well?
Shortly before la hora loca the birthday wife passed out masks and cardboard ties to each of the guests. Then suddenly the room was full of balloons, confetti, a DJ, and two masked entertainers dressed in outlandish costumes. For the next hour they led the dancing which included everything from the macarena to a conga line. Some of us "lucky" ones even got pulled into the middle of the dance circle to try out a new move with one of the leaders. I couldn't help but laugh to see some of the grandparents getting down. Age was clearly not an obstacle when it came to busting a move.
After la hora loca and the cutting of the cake (which, per Ecuadorean tradition, found part of its way onto the birthday man's face), many of the guests left. It was past midnight at this point and it was a Thursday so there would be work the next day. While we waited for my host dad to finish eating his dinner (he had arrived later and missed the meal), the last of our small group ended danced for another half an hour or so. I ended the night with a dance with the birthday man and then we finally went our way, arriving home a little after 1 o' clock in the morning.
So yes, my night had definitely not gone as planned. My "prep work" would have to wait for another day and there was a good chance I would be sleepy grading placement tests the following morning. But I had a wonderful experience and took one step closer to understanding and appreciating life here in Ecuador.
Wow, that sounds overwhelming. Especially since its all in Spanish...
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