Saturday, November 29, 2014

The biggest small blessings

In light of the recent Thanksgiving holiday, I wanted to take a moment to share some of the things that I’ve come to appreciate after spending the last few years living and traveling abroad. Most of the items on this list are things I’ve become grateful for after living in developing countries and countries where I don’t speak the language. But some of the things on this list are simply things that I took for granted as a country girl moving into urban environments. Whatever the reason, moving outside of home and my comfort zone has heightened my thankfulness in so many ways.

This year I am thankful for…

A shower with hot water AND water pressure. I remember coming home from Ecuador and literally giving thanks every time I took a shower and hot water came out of the shower head. I remembered days in Ecuador when we had no gas which meant no hot water which meant no shower and I had to resort to a quick splash in the sink. (Or a bone chilling speed shower which I could never force myself to do.) Coming to China, I was thrilled that I had my very own water heater installed in my bathroom. The water was a mild trickle but it was HOT! And then, after a month or so into my stay, the school replaced all of the showerheads and now I have hot water and amazing water pressure. I can’t tell you how ecstatic I am every time I take a shower. Oh, the magnificence of being pelted by scalding hot water… it’s a beautiful thing.

 A kind local who is patient enough to sort out your gestures and monosyllabic vocabulary. This has become a very big deal for me here in China, but it also was a factor in Ecuador when I had first arrived and was getting my rusty Spanish back into working order. There is nothing more frustrating or humiliating than when you’re at the grocery store (or the bank, or the bus stop, or a restaurant…) and you simply can’t make yourself understood AND the local you’re trying to communicate with is unfriendly. I’ve had my fair share of locals who’ve simply dismissed me when they discover I’m working with a limited (or nonexistent) vocabulary. But then there are those kind and saintly souls who stop what they’re doing and patiently walk you through how to get from point A to point B. Or take the time to decipher just what exactly it is you’re attempting to order. Or break out their own limited English to help you purchase a train ticket. In those moments the barriers of language and culture suddenly dissipate, and you are just two people rediscovering all of the words in a smile or a touch. I love those moments.

Finding a new favorite food. We all have our comfort foods we run to when things start to fall apart. But often times in new countries, our “food crutches” are not always readily available. So I love when I come across a new dish or snack that is readily available in my new country and that fills the hole left by my longings for a Chipotle burrito or a burger from Five Guys. Having said that, however, when you do find your favorite food or snack it’s like the heavens have opened and poured out their delicious goodness upon you and suddenly the whole world is sunshine and Skittles.

One foreign friend. Of course when we’re in our home country, we take “our people” for granted. Whether it’s your family or friends or your awesome co-workers or the eccentric neighbor next door who still dresses like it’s 1975 but always gives you the best popcorn tin at Christmas, we all take for granted that these are people with whom we share a common culture and similar values and ideas. When you’re transported thousands of miles from home and suddenly find yourself in a country where people spit everywhere or don’t understand the concept of punctuality, you have to have that one person who just gets it. Living abroad can be quite a trying experience at times and there is nothing quite like suffering through the adjustment to squat toilets together that creates an unshakeable bond between two people.

Being able to celebrate your faith.  One of my primary concerns when coming to China was having to go yet another year without being part of a church community.  This goes hand in hand with my previous comment, but having people around you who think and believe as you do is such a wonderful support when home is thousands of miles away.

American TV shows and movies. Imagine with me: It’s Saturday. The rain is coming down in buckets. You have nothing to do and can’t go anywhere even if you wanted to. You’ve got on your comfy sweats and didn’t even bother putting in your contacts. You’ve stockpiled a handsome amount of popcorn and chocolate. Vegging out in front of the TV for a few hours is just what the doctor ordered. You  grab some pillows, snuggle up on the couch, turn on the TV and..….you can’t understand a word that’s being said. You flip through 20 more channels with the same results. And then--there it is! English! Saturday is saved!!  You sit straight up and flip back one channel to that angelic voice, hoping for reruns of Law and Order or, heck, Gilmore Girls. The screen changes….aaand it’s CNN. Welcome to China.

A home that is (mostly) insect free. For those of you who’ve read up on my brief Honduran encounter, you know that I had quite the infestation problem in my little home there. There was literally not one room in the house where I could sit down without being disrupted by an ant or spider or roach or gecko. Being able to walk about my apartment freely without fearing who may be waiting around the corner for me does wonders for my peace of mind. Even now, every time I get up for a midnight bathroom run I give thanks that there are no large black shapes scurrying into the dark as I approach.

Fast, reliable, unrestricted internet access. I hate to admit it, but when I’m abroad I’m pretty attached to my internet connection. At the risk of sounding melodramatic, it’s my lifeline. It’s my only means of communication with everyone back home. It’s where all of my entertainment comes from (sorry, CNN). It’s my journal where I document all of my adventures. And it’s one of my few windows into what’s going on back stateside. So when the internet is down, or running incredibly sloo-o-o-wly, or my VPN is not cooperating and I’m stuck behind China’s ridiculous firewall, well I realize just how much I appreciate my seamless connection in the states.

Grocery stores within walking distance. Now this is definitely one of those things that has much more to do with moving from the country to the city than it does living abroad. In the country, grocery shopping involves getting in your car and driving to the closest Walmart or Kroger where you proceed to stock up on everything you’ll need for the next two weeks. In the city, you might go to the grocery store multiple times a week (!!) because 1) you can only haul so much back with you sans car and 2) bulk food does not fit well in a tiny apartment. As a result, I am always beyond thrilled when I find a large, well-stocked grocery store mere minutes from my flat. Having to hike up my six flights of stairs multiple times a day is workout enough and knowing that I don’t have to haul my groceries five blocks or wait ages for the bus is a HUGE blessing.

A seat on the bus. Another country girl moving to the city thing. When you’ve got a 50 minute bus ride ahead of you and it’s late and you’ve had a long day and your back hurts, there is nothing more heavenly than snagging that last seat on the bus. Who knew hard plastic chairs could be so comfortable?

A/C and/or heat. I feel like as Americans we are pretty picky about keeping all of our environments perfectly climate controlled. As soon as the first bead of sweat starts to form, on goes the A/C. And at the first chilly gust of winter wind, the heat comes on full blast. And yes, I am one of those people--I hate being too hot or too cold. Having to sweat it out in the 90 degree heat and not having that switch to flip for instant ice cold air or shivering in my uninsulated apartment with the cold tile floors and unsealed windows and doors with only one space heater to spare has shown me how much I just expect to have both of those things. Now when I am nice and toasty or cool and sweat-free, I always take a moment to appreciate it.

Family and friends who put in the effort to stay in touch. I know long distance relationships are hard. It takes a certain amount of motivation and effort to keep in contact with someone who is miles and multiple time zones away. So whenever I get an email or text or a simple “Hi, how’s China?” on Facebook--or better yet, a care package from home (gold!!)—I know that I am blessed with people who truly care about me despite the time and distance. And who are willing to sacrifice their time and money and sleep to send a little joy my way.

I am so thankful for each of these things, big and small. Most of all, though, I am thankful that I have been given these wonderful opportunities to live abroad so that I may grow into a person of gratitude who can see value where so many others may not.

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

HK in 2 Days

My brief trip to Hong Kong was the first time I’d left Xiamen since I arrived here almost three (!!) months ago. Trust me, it was a much needed break.

While there are certainly things I enjoy about living in China, traveling to a truly international city replete with other foreigners and plenty of English was just what I needed to put a little spring back in my step. Between the incessant staring, the trials of teaching, and the monotony of our cafeteria food, I was more than ready to hop on a fast train south to experience a little excitement. Even though the purpose of my trip was to (finally!) get my work visa, I was much more excited about the idea of shopping for American brands and eating food that wasn’t Chinese.

I set off on my mini-adventure bright and early on Thursday morning. I had not reserved a ticket for the train and was simply hoping that if I showed up early enough I would have no trouble securing one.

Getting to the station proved to be an ordeal in itself. I ended up crammed on the back of a bus and was unable to get off at my stop because my foot got caught in the door. (Figures.) I got off at the following stop and then had to run all the way back (and right through a massive mud puddle) to just barely catch the bus I needed to transfer to.

Once I got to the station, I was hoping that there would be at least some English to direct me to where I needed to go. No such luck. The ticket windows were ensconced in Chinese and I had no idea which line would get me a ticket to Shenzhen. I breathed a quick prayer and hopped in the shortest line hoping for the best. (The best being an English speaker of some level who would understand my near non-existent Chinese and frantic hand gestures.)

Thankfully, that’s pretty much what I got and ended up with a ticket leaving at 8:50 to Shenzhen.

I knew the train ride would be almost 4 hours, and once I arrived in Shenzhen I knew that I would need to take the subway to the China/Hong Kong border and then from there take another subway to Causeway Bay where my hostel and the visa office were located. Based on that information, I figured I would arrive in Causeway Bay around 2:00pm, leaving plenty of time to get to the visa office and then relax at my hostel before doing a little exploring.

After all the trips I've taken, I should’ve known better than to assume such things. As it turned out. I arrived in Causeway Bay well after 3:00pm and proceeded to get myself lost. (C’mon, Hong Kong. You need street signs at every intersection!) As the clock ticked closer to 4 o’clock (the visa office closed at 5), my panic levels skyrocketed and I began to formulate a Plan B. I decided if all else failed I could always stay and leave on Monday.

As I wandered down yet another road (without a street sign), I noticed with a wave of relief that one kindly business had posted their full address on their wall, including the street name. I was walking in the right direction!

Moments later, I raced into the visa office praying for short lines and an accommodating visa officer. Again, no such luck. There were 77 people in front of me! I grabbed my number and sank down in the frigid air conditioning to wait my turn.

As I sat there silently shivering, I noticed that there seemed to be quite a few people being turned away due to, what seemed to be, a lack of documentation. I was terrified that after traveling all the way to Hong Kong and arriving in the nick of time and after waiting for the 77 people ahead of me that I would make it to the window only to be rejected due to some minute detail I had overlooked. So every five or ten minutes, I kept taking out my visa application and reviewing it for phantom errors lurking between the lines.

My number--330--was finally called. I walked sweaty-palmed up to the window and gingerly placed my information in the tray. I was just waiting for everything to come crashing down around me.

The visa officer flipped through my passport and application and it seemed like everything was as it should be. Just as a sigh of relief started to escape my lips, she paused and my heart froze.

“I need your Hong Kong visa.” I frantically scrambled around the corners of mind trying to determine when and if I had ever acquired such a visa. Nothing came to mind.

“I—I don’t have a Hong Kong visa,” I responded nervously.

She insisted. “Your visa. I need to see your Hong Kong visa.”

Again I replied in the negative.

With a long-suffering sigh, cultivated to perfection after dealing with thousands of inept foreigners no doubt, she pointed to a small square of paper that looked exactly like the one I had been given at the Hong Kong border. It was literally barely larger than a postage stamp and I had had no idea that that insignificant little slip of nothingness was my visa. I silently thanked my lucky stars that I hadn't chucked it like I had originally planned and slid it to her under the window.

After that, everything was smooth sailing. I was told that I could pick up my visa the following day at 3pm and was sent on my way.

After having been so tightly wound since departing that morning from Xiamen, I almost didn't know what to do with myself. I literally had to take a moment in a nearby bathroom stall to keep myself from collapsing into a soggy heap of tears of relief.

But I was starving and my back ached from hauling around my backpack all day, so all of that melodramatic nonsense was quickly squelched and I was off to find food and shelter.

Happily, the rest of my time in Hong Kong was quite pleasant. It mainly involved me wandering around the area near my hostel. It was perfectly situated smack in the middle of Causeway Bay so I had easy access to all of the big stores and shopping centers like SOGO and Times Square, as well as some amazing restaurants. I took full advantage of this time to indulge in those “American” pastimes that I had been missing. Like sipping coffee at a legit coffee shop and buying my first pair of Toms. And some things less "American" like digging into a heavenly plate of Pad Thai or a steaming bowl of Japanese ramen. I even stumbled upon my favorite cookies from Australia, Tim Tams! I also managed to squeeze in a bit of sightseeing and spent Friday morning strolling around Victoria Park.

For lots more info, pics and footage of my HK experience, click the video below. And be sure to click here to check out my Facebook album as well!

(Please note: Most of the video was taken on my cell phone hence the smaller size and lower quality.)